by PhotoMann
A visit to India can be a rewarding experience (adventure)
that you will never forget. India has an enormous variety of destinations
to offer from the flat plains to the Himalayas including countless temples,
tombs, forts, abandoned cities and ruins. Many people travel to India
just to see the Taj Mahal. The journey will be a shock to your senses
and emotions but will be well worth it! I just returned last week from
my 8 day adventure to India. Family and friends tried initially to dissuade
me from going due to the recent plague and malaria outbreaks. After
thoroughly researching both I found that the entire situation was overblown
by the media. The actual risks where I was going were very small.
I've been to roughly 25 countries over the last four
years and I must say that India is the first place I really experienced
culture shock. It can be hard going and the poverty will get you down.
It's the dirtiest and most polluted place I've ever been but at the
same time it's the most picturesque. Besides the spectacular forts,
tombs and monuments the street life and color is incredible. There is
no such thing as a dull Indian street. I shot more slides than I would
have ever imagined (and I usually shoot a lot).
In Delhi I hired a small van and driver for 6 days
for only $172! This covered the vehicle, gas, driver (pay, hotel & food)
for seeing Delhi, Agra and Jaipur. Renting a car and driving yourself
(I don't advise it) will cost more per day. My original intention was
to take the train from city to city but this option would allow me to
see more of the people and culture driving through the countryside.
Delhi is a actually two cities in one. Old
Delhi is full of mosques, forts and monuments linked to centuries of
Muslim history while New Delhi is the imperial city created by the British.
The difference between the two is quite remarkable. Old Delhi is much
more dirty and populated than New Delhi. To my amazement the air pollution
and dirt in Delhi makes Bangkok seem clean! The morning weather forcast
in the paper on my last day indicated 'fog/smoke'.
Agra is about a 5 hour drive from Delhi.
It is famous for its massive red fort which stretches 2.5 kilometers,
crowded alleys and of course the Taj Mahal which is the symbol of India.
The Taj is by far one of the most magnificent things I've ever seen.
It took 20,000 workers 22 years to build. It definitely deserves more
than one visit. Most people who come to see it take a day trip from
Delhi by train and only see it once. I visited at sunset and again early
the next day. In the first hour after sunrise it appears to be magical.
The appearance changes with the rising sun. About every 15 minutes there
was a noticeable change. Of course the admission price for entry at
the best times (before 8am and after 4pm) is many times the cost of
the normal ticket but it's still cheap. The astronomically inflated
price is 100 Rs ($3.23) vice the regular 2 Rs ($.06). They don't allow
tripods in the Taj and they charge a foreigner video permit fee of 100
Rs.
There is a sign when approaching the main Taj building
indicating that 'photography is prohibited beyond this point' but everyone
seemed to ignore it so I shot away. I shot several rolls of slides at
every possible angle including arch shots, water reflections, close-ups
and extreme wide angles (20mm). There are even 'helpers', which I chose
to ignore, who will try to show you the best places to shoot from and
then hold out their hand expecting a tip. Outside of Agra on the way
to Jaipur one should stop and see the deserted city of Fetehpur Sekri
which contains a mosque (small replica of the one in Mecca), a palace
and much more.
Jaipur is the capital of the Indian state
of Rajastan. It is often referred to as the 'Pink City' for the color
of many of the buildings in the old walled portion of the city. The
city has wide streets which were designed to accommodate old time elephant
processions. Although it's an ancient city it has a surprisingly modern
layout with streets in grids and large 'traffic circles'.
Photography stuff:
- I would suggest taking lots of film to handle the endless photo
ops. However, if you run out film including Elite, Sensia and Provia
is easily found at reputable camera stores for a reasonable price.
- Many places charge a fee for a 'foreigner camera permit' ($1-2.00)
- Almost all places charge a fee for using a video camera which
can be $1-4.00. Fortunately on this trip I didn't carry my video
camera which I rarely use.
- Keep your camera bag zipped - beware of the beggars who tug
on your arm.
- Visit the street markets for wonderful shooting opportunities.
- Dust is a problem; bring a lens brush and small can of air.
- The endless supply of camel, cow and donkey drawn vehicles
provide lost of photo opportunities.
- Many people near tourist sites will volunteer to have their
picture taken but will instantly have their hand out once you take
it.
- It's hard to stop the vehicle in the city so shooting from
a moving van may be required in some cases. There are many 'no parking
areas' as police will hassle driver looking for a bribe. We almost
had our van impounded the first day in Delhi but the officer finally
gave in without taking the bribe (He didn't want a tourist see him
take it). I shot a lot of pictures from the van at the highest possible
shutter speed.
- If you have a day or two left at the end of your trip in Delhi
you can get cheap film processing. I had the Delhi Photo Company
process a dozen rolls of slides at their express (same day) rate
of $5.65. If you can wait till the next day it's only $3.25 to process
& mount.
General observations:
- The driving can be crazy. The quote from my driver that sticks
in my mind is that "There aren't any real traffic laws, we drive
by God". They also drive with their horns blowing all the time to
warn people they are approaching and/or passing. Many vehicles have
"Horn Please!" painted on the back.
- Although many Indians speak English I had a real hard time
understanding my driver. I think I comprehended about 50% of what
he said without having him repeat himself.
- Animals (cows, goats, pigs, dogs, etc) are everywhere. I was
constantly amazed to see cows walking down the sidewalk even in
the best parts of town. I think they live as scavengers. I never
quite figured out who they might belong to (i.e. who owns the cow
laying in the median of a busy street).
- It can be easy reach your limit on temper with the numerous
'guides', beggars and hawkers. The constant onslot makes you question
the motives of anyone that approaches you. It can leave the impression
that everyone wants something.
Expense: The option I chose was to combine
my trips to Thailand and India into one. Discount tickets from Bangkok
to Delhi are readily available in Bangkok for 9000 Baht (about $360)
round trip. In India expect to pay roughly $30/night except in Delhi
where prices are a bit higher. And again, for transportation in country
you can hire a driver and vehicle for a small sum which depends on where
you want to go ($172 for my 6 day itinerary). I spent far more on souvenirs
and 'art' than on actual travel costs. It can be a cheap vacation if
you can avoid the numerous shopping opportunities. I was unable to resist
the temptation.
Overall it was an outstanding experience once I settled
into my surroundings. I would highly recommend the trip to the adventurous/hardy
tourist and especially to photographers. The photo opportunities are
endless.
Suggested India Travel Guides
(Order directly from Amazon Books - Click on the
title)
Eyewitness
Travel Guides: Delhi, Agra and Jaipur
Eyewitness guides provide great detail on sights and history.
This guide covers the three destinations I visitied in India.
It's a great reference especially with it's fantastic three
dimensional cutaway views of sites and monuments to point
out all the details. It makes finding things much easier than
merely having a bunch of words and a map.
Lonely
Planet India
Lonely
Planet Delhi
Lonely
Planet Indian Himalaya
As with most Lonely Planet guides, this India edition is
an invaluable resource for planning your journey. It offers
you the most up-to-date information about where to go and
where to aviod, how to get there and get around, where to
stay at a reasonable rate. The guide provides everything you'll
need to know for a rewarding visit.
Fodor's
India
A lively, graphic, full-color guidebook to India.
The author provides solid travel reporting on every region including
what to see and do plus recommended tours. It's rating system
identifies the not-to-be-missed sights.